{"id":7531,"date":"2022-06-17T18:00:00","date_gmt":"2022-06-17T09:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/global.typica.jp?post_type=roasters&p=7531"},"modified":"2022-12-26T09:59:57","modified_gmt":"2022-12-26T00:59:57","slug":"beans-kitami","status":"publish","type":"roasters","link":"https:\/\/typica.coffee\/en\/narratives\/roasters\/beans-kitami\/","title":{"rendered":"Beans Kitami"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
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A less than 30-minute train ride from Tokyo’s Shibuya station, Kitami is located in the western outskirts of Setagaya Ward. While being just across the river from the upscale residential area of Seijo, Kitami still retains its natural beauty and human touch. In this peaceful neighborhood, where you can find unmanned vegetable stands on side streets, there is a roastery long committed to custom roasting: Beans Kitami, founded in 1988. On weekends and holidays, customers wait for their orders for up to three hours. And that\u2019s just business as usual at Beans Kitami.

The shop is currently run by three people: sisters Norie Shimizu and Sayuri Shimizu, and the so-called \u201cbig brother\u201d Nobuto Miyashita. Through interviews, we set out to find out how they became fascinated by custom roasting, and the beliefs they hold as they continue to preserve the shop\u2019s unique style.<\/p>\n\n\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/section><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

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Open Specialty Shop<\/strong><\/h4>\n\n\n\n

In front of Kitami Station, there is a one-kilometer-long shopping street dotted with more than 100 shops. This is where locals gather, home to a mix of large supermarkets, chain shops, and old-fashioned mom-and-pop stores. In one corner stands Beans Kitami, with its sign saying \u201cRoastery & Coffee Bean Shop.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Beans is one of the few coffee bean specialty shops in Japan that roast coffee made-to-order. Still, the store doesn\u2019t have the feel of an old-fashioned shop run by a stubborn owner. Once you open the retro, wooden door, you\u2019ll see bags of green coffee crammed into rows. \u201cThere are so many beans I\u2019d like to get and sell to our customers, and that\u2019s why they\u2019re overflowing. I\u2019ve tried to restrain my urge lately,\u201d says Norie.<\/p>\n\n\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/section><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

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Coffees at Beans are characterized by their powerful aroma and depth of taste. These are a product of serving coffee beans freshly roasted in a small, direct-fire coffee roaster.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cWhen I get on the train with roasted beans, their aroma is so strong that passengers around me go, \u2018I smell something roasty.\u2019 Both my family and friends are surprised by how the aroma wafts across a room when they brew coffee with our beans,\u201d says Miyashita.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Beans offers 40 to 50 kinds of coffee. They have a full range of beans from diverse origins, tastes, and aromas to meet every possible need. From eight roasting profiles, the shop chooses one that fits customers\u2019 preferences. Roasting begins after their order.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cCoffee is a recreational drink. So we want people to enjoy it with their favorite roasting, favorite grinding method, and favorite brewing equipment. The beauty of custom roasting is that you can expand and explore the scope of your taste as if you\u2019re traveling. In fact, some customers were so fascinated by this style that they ended up going through all our roasting profiles with a single variety,\u201d says Sayuri.<\/p>\n\n\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/section><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

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Since Beans offers so many choices of green coffee, the staff need not only knowledge of roasting but also the ability to listen to customers\u2019 preferences in detail and make recommendations to match them. The three members at Beans, all well-versed in coffee origins, handle multiple tasks from customer service to roasting, rather than set clear boundaries between their roles. This allows customers to ask for advice on coffee whenever they visit Beans.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cLet\u2019s say customers ask for \u2018a nutty taste.\u2019 We try to dig deeper and figure out whether they mean almond, hazelnuts or pistachio. Only then can we suggest what beans and roasting method to use,\u201d says Norie.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The experience and trust acquired in this fashion have formed the foundation of Beans. Repeat customers make up around 90% of the orders. Some customers have been coming to the shop since its opening. There is also a hardcore aficionado who discreetly measures roasting time with a stopwatch.<\/p>\n\n\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/section><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

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The shop also has a neighborhood coffee shop side to it, with children living nearby coming to buy their products on the first errand of their life. The face of the shop is Miyashita, the oldest and beloved character who cracks witty jokes in fluent English. The sisters Norie and Sayuri, with their caring neighborhood big sister vibes, also draw in customers who drop in on a whim.

\u201cYou can use our shop just as a grandmother buys cabbage at a greengrocer or tofu at a tofu shop. We\u2019re as committed to the taste of our products as any other, but we don\u2019t try to be cool. That\u2019s what makes us attractive,\u201d says Miyashita.<\/p>\n\n\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/section><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n

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Steady work behind passion<\/strong><\/strong><\/h4>\n\n\n\n

Custom roasting is a tradition at Beans that has been handed down from the founder, who was the previous owner. Norie, the longest-serving employee, was one of the customers who were fascinated by Beans\u2019 unique style. She first encountered Beans in 2002 when she started university. After leaving her hometown in Nagano and moving to Tokyo, she was introduced to Beans by her older sister, who was living with her at the time.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cI was impressed with how the staff at Beans roasted coffee just for me after my order. I wanted to learn that technique myself and give customers the excitement I felt. I still remember how I felt at that moment,\u201d says Norie.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The month after her first visit to the shop, Norie saw an advert for a trainee position at Beans. She made up her mind to be one. When the owner saw the blonde girl in a worn-out T-shirt and jeans, he almost turned her away, saying, \u201cWe don\u2019t hire students.\u201d However, she persisted and said, \u201cPlease, I\u2019ll do my best.\u201d She got the position and started to come in once a week.<\/p>\n\n\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/section><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

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Though initially she was underestimated as a quitter, Norie doggedly went about her job, picking out coffee by hand. She went on to fill a gap left open by part-timers who quit one after another. Why did she not give up the humdrum job?<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cI looked at the job the same as washing dishes or cleaning at a restaurant, so I wasn\u2019t frustrated in particular. I went about my job trying to find a more efficient way to do it. I think I was able to hang in there because I knew that the time-consuming work I did led to the value of our products that in turn brought joy and healing to our customers,\u201d says Norie.<\/p>\n\n\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/section><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

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Norie continued to work at Beans until she graduated from university. Although she got a job at another company, she eventually returned to her old home of Beans.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cWhen I fell mentally and physically ill after receiving a harsh lesson in society, the owner invited me to come back, and I did so. Then customers said to me, \u2018Welcome back.\u2019 That\u2019s when I knew in my heart that this is where I belong,\u201d says Norie.<\/p>\n\n\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/section><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

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Norie became an employee of Beans, a company with a stance that one earns their keep. She started selling their products online and took part in events, trying to carve out a place for herself.  She was then joined by Sayuri, \u201cjust the right partner,\u201d as she describes, who was five years her junior and a university student.

\u201cAll I was interested in at the time was riding a motorcycle,\u201d says Sayuri. \u201cI got my license behind my parents\u2019 back. But as I helped out my sister, I became fascinated by the depth of roasting. Pulling up the drum just three seconds late, and the coffee turned out with a burnt taste or lacked body. I learned that  even if I roasted exactly according to a predetermined profile, I couldn\u2019t get what I was looking for. I was very frustrated. Over time, that frustration fueled my eagerness to learn, and I became absorbed in the world of coffee.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/section><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

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Contrary to her desire to roast coffee, there was a period where Sayuri had to spend her days doing tasks such as handpicking, weighing, and bagging. It took her five years to fully engage in roasting. But Sayuri says, \u201cThat grunt work and frustration formed my backbone,\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cRoasting a small batch at a time is one of our selling points. So it\u2019s not very unusual that we roast over 100 times a day. I have strained my nerves to do my best job every single time. Now, I\u2019m able to figure out the moment aroma spreads out from coffee beans. It\u2019s a craft I\u2019ve gained through sheer effort.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

It is such continuous improvement that makes Beans what it is today, an attractive, homely shop that\u2019s been loved for many years. Quite a few staff members came and went, their hopes and aspirations gradually worn thin by the repetitive unglamorous work.<\/p>\n\n\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/section><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n

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Succession and development<\/strong><\/strong><\/h4>\n\n\n\n

Growing up in a family that ran a furniture trading company and real estate firm, Norie and Sayuri were instilled with a family motto from an early age: \u201cA merchant\u2019s child should be a merchant.\u201d Although Sayuri also left Beans once and worked at another company, she eventually returned to Beans after realizing that she wasn\u2019t cut out to be an office worker. Rather than being told what to do, she prefers to think and act of her own accord.<\/p>\n\n\n\n


Right around the time Sayuri came back to Beans, Miyashita reached out to Norie, saying he, too, wanted to join Beans to study coffee. Thus, Miyashita started devoting his weekends to coffee while working another job on weekdays.<\/p>\n\n\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/section><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

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\u201cCompared with all other coffees I\u2019d had, coffees at Beans had exceptionally rich aromas. Over time, I started to feel the urge to try my hands at roasting, too. But I was told, \u2018We can\u2019t hire you full-time.\u2019 Still, I was grateful just to be able to learn about coffee even if only on weekends. You only live once, and I wanted to do what I wanted to do. I think that was one of the most decisive moments in my life,\u201d says Miyashita.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Miyashita then suddenly quit his day job and decided to focus on Beans. He received a Beans-style harsh lesson from Norie and Sayuri, who are over 12 years younger than him: \u201cWe are different from a big company where you have a lot of benefits and get paid while on sick leave. You have to earn your own salary.\u201d But he was not discouraged. He planned a new morning service at a caf\u00e9 they used to run, and made it into reality with the sisters\u2019 cooperation. <\/p>\n\n\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/section><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

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Norie was 31 years old at the time, and Sayuri 26. Her father had once told them, \u201cIf you don\u2019t succeed in Tokyo by the age of 30, come back home.\u201d They had made up their mind to not rely financially on their parents when they started business. So they did as much DIY as possible when they renovated the second floor of Beans and opened a caf\u00e9. They sought ways to grow the business while preserving its character, such as by putting together detailed profiles so that all three of them could produce the same flavor. Then the three of them founded a company in 2014, taking over Beans from the previous owner and its sign.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The first turning point came in 2018-2019 when Norie and Sayuri gave birth. They decided to put the caf\u00e9 on hold and focus on roasting so that they could juggle equally between running the business and being mothers.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Then 2020 marked the second turning point. As they made connections with other businesses within the industry and expanded their horizons, they had an encounter with low-temperature roasting, which had an allure not found in Beans.<\/p>\n\n\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/section><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

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\u201cWe were confident that we could broaden our possibilities if we adopted low-temperature roasting to take advantage of the delicate aroma, flavor, and sweetness it affords coffee. After we acquired the skills, we were able to produce the delicate aroma unique to low-temperature roasting. But on the other hand, we struggled to bring out the powerful aroma characteristic of Beans,\u201d says Norie.<\/p>\n\n\n\n


\u201cThe powerful aroma comes specifically from roasting small quantities over direct fire. Our customers who were accustomed to the aroma said, \u2018It tastes good, but I prefer the usual one.\u2019 We reviewed the flavor-making processes unique to Beans for all green coffee beans so we could successfully fuse the two,\u201d says Sayuri.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Some green coffee beans were better served by using our conventional roasting method, while others were better served by adopting low-temperature roasting. For example, for mocha, which has a powerful and gorgeous aroma but also the downside of an unpleasant aftertaste, the aftertaste became clearer while retaining the aromatic appeal to the fullest. Thanks to low-temperature roasting, which minimizes the stress on beans, coffee turned out with longer-lasting aromas. \u201cWe have a new method now,\u201d says Norie.<\/p>\n\n\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/section><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

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Having similar tastes, the three of them work in perfect harmony. If they were a car, Sayuri would be the engine as she is good at planning and getting things done; Miyashita the tire as he is a non-stop behind-the-scenes supporter; and Norie the steering wheel as she guides while keeping the balance. They thought about increasing the number of staff in order to expand the shop, but they came to the conclusion that it would be better to keep the three of them together to maintain quality. They say they want to look for the next generation of talent for Beans.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cWe\u2019re invaluable to each other as we\u2019ve spent decades together and we can work toward one goal with the same motivation. We\u2019re all opinionated so we can get into fights. But we can stand without falling down because we can collide with each other with equal strength, just like Oshikura Manju (a Japanese game played by pressing against each other\u2019s backs). We are lucky to have a place where we can speak our minds and laugh with each other every day,\u201d says Norie.<\/p>\n\n\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/section><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

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More important thing than efficiency<\/strong><\/strong><\/h4>\n\n\n\n

The three of them are not the only ones who continue to support Beans. Their original small coffee roaster that handles custom roasting is also an essential part of Beans. The maximum amount of green coffee beans that can be roasted at once is 600 g, which is less than a tenth of a large coffee roaster\u2019s capacity. The small coffee roaster could even be considered a sample roaster.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cWe regularly compare coffees roasted by our small coffee roaster and the ones roasted by famous manufacturers\u2019 roasters. Often, we find unique aromas that come from our small roaster. I believe that there are some aromas that can\u2019t be extracted when roasting in large batches,\u201d says Sayuri.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

However, Beans\u2019 small coffee roaster can be temperamental. The kiln is small and has low heat retention, making it sensitive to external factors such as the wind from an air conditioner or the outside air when the door is opened. Strict control is required to adjust the heat level according to the input temperature and the amount of beans to be roasted. Above all, roasting for each order sacrifices efficiency.<\/p>\n\n\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/section><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

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\u201cOne order takes up 10 minutes on the coffee roaster, and the more types of beans and roasting profiles you have, the more times you roast. It\u2019s like I\u2019m busy roasting all day long, but I can\u2019t give up this style. I\u2019d like to live up to the expectations of our customers even if it takes time, because they also find value in having us roast just for them. Roasting with our small coffee roaster while thinking of the customer\u2019s face, is almost like cooking for my own family,\u201d says Sayuri.<\/p>\n\n\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/section><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

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Roasting is not the only thing to which the three of them devote a great deal of time and care. They do everything themselves, from selecting origins suitable for their small roaster, negotiating with coffee curators and ordering samples, to cupping, roasting, handpicking, design, customer service, and sales.<\/p>\n\n\n\n


\u201cWe all share the feeling of loving our daughters and sons, thinking about what kind of clothes we should dress them in and what kind of aroma and taste we should give them. It\u2019s all for making coffee beans that can please our customers,\u201d says Norie.<\/p>\n\n\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/section><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

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Striving to keep the shop going<\/strong><\/strong><\/h4>\n\n\n\n

The three of them have been pushing forward while sticking to what they want to do. Even now, Miyashita, who is on the cusp of 60 years old, continues to take on new challenges, such as launching his own private brand, \u2018NUBE VIAJERA KOFFEE TIENDA\u2019 and opening shops at events under the auspices of Beans. No matter how many years have passed, his passion for coffee has never run out.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cOur current goal is to develop a new coffee roaster. We want to overcome the disadvantages of our small coffee roaster, which is sensitive to external factors, by making it possible to handle 1 kg or 2 kg while maintaining flavor. We\u2019ve been getting more wholesale orders, so we\u2019d like to install several new coffee roasters and expand our roasting space,\u201d says Norie.<\/p>\n\n\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/section><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

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The three of them continue to evolve, but they all have the unchanging belief in their hearts to preserve Beans-ness.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cWhen we started low-temperature roasting, I gave a sample to one of our regular customers. Then he told me, \u2018You don\u2019t need to do that. I trust the taste of Beans, so please don\u2019t ask me to evaluate the taste.\u2019 I was so happy that I almost cried,\u201d says Sayuri.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The relationships they have built with personalized attention through custom roasting have a warmth that goes beyond that of a business-and-client relationship.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cI was overcome with emotion when a customer who had been coming to our shop since it opened told me, \u2018I\u2019ll put your beans in my casket.\u2019 The customer isn\u2019t the type of person to joke around, so I realized how truly the customer loves our coffee,\u201d says Miyashita.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The way Beans operates teaches us that there is abundance in inefficiency. The inimitable shop, which these three irreplaceable people have single-mindedly continued to preserve, will surely continue to be filled with powerful aroma and laughter in the future.
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Originally written in Japanese by Mieko Karube
Edited by Tatsuya Nakamichi
Photos by Kenichi Aikawa
Translated by Tomohiko Nakamura (KARIS Translation Services)<\/p>\n\n\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/section><\/div><\/div>\n\n\n

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<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":9,"featured_media":7532,"template":"","prefectures":[6,886],"roasters-category":[963],"cut_article_video":[979,983],"roasterss_area":[984,986],"class_list":["post-7531","roasters","type-roasters","status-publish","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","prefectures-tokyo","prefectures-japan","roasters-category-original","cut_article_video-all","cut_article_video-article","roasterss_area-all","roasterss_area-japan"],"acf":[],"toolset-meta":{"roasters%e7%94%a8field-group":{"roaster-kvmode":{"type":"radio","raw":"2"},"image-roaster":{"type":"image","raw":"https:\/\/typica.jp\/cms\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/BEANS_KITAMI_TOP_rev01.jpeg","attachment_id":null},"name-roaster":{"type":"textfield","raw":"Norie Shimizu \/ Nobuto Miyashita \/ Sayuri Shimizu"},"roaster-copy":{"type":"textfield","raw":"Over 30 Years of Delivering Custom-Roast Coffee with Familiar Touch"},"roaster-shopname":{"type":"textarea","raw":"Beans Kitami"},"roaster-shop-image":{"type":"image","raw":"https:\/\/typica.jp\/cms\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/BEANS_KITAMI_SIGN.jpeg","attachment_id":null},"roaster-oncup":{"type":"textarea","raw":"Norie and Sayuri: Nothing beats the time when we\u2019re finally able to make a blend beyond our ideal after making many prototypes. Moments like that fill our hearts with the excitement of new discovery and a sense of accomplishment that out of countless possible combinations, we\u2019ve finally found the perfect one. That\u2019s when we feel the desire to serve it to our customers as soon as possible. (Norie and Sayuri)\r\n\r\nNobuto: The best coffee I\u2019ve ever had was when I climbed all the way up a mountain on a touring bike with friends and had a cup of mocha at the summit. It was at the height of summer, and I was so thirsty. But somehow the hot and bitter mocha tasted so good that I remember it to this day."},"roaster-favorite-farm":{"type":"textfield","raw":""},"roaster-favorite-beans":{"type":"textfield","raw":""},"roaster-ec":{"type":"url","raw":""}}},"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/typica.coffee\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/roasters\/7531","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/typica.coffee\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/roasters"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/typica.coffee\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/roasters"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/typica.coffee\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/9"}],"version-history":[{"count":14,"href":"https:\/\/typica.coffee\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/roasters\/7531\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":9217,"href":"https:\/\/typica.coffee\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/roasters\/7531\/revisions\/9217"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/typica.coffee\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/7532"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/typica.coffee\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=7531"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"prefectures","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/typica.coffee\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/prefectures?post=7531"},{"taxonomy":"roasters-category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/typica.coffee\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/roasters-category?post=7531"},{"taxonomy":"cut_article_video","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/typica.coffee\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/cut_article_video?post=7531"},{"taxonomy":"roasterss_area","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/typica.coffee\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/roasterss_area?post=7531"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}